It’s rarely about a lack of effort. Often it’s because certain junctions behave differently to what drivers expect, or because there’s a lot happening at once. Below are some types of junctions that regularly catch drivers out, along with tips on how to approach them calmly and safely.

1. Staggered junctions

At first glance, staggered junctions can look like one big crossroads. In reality, they’re two separate T-junctions placed close together – and that difference really matters.

Why they’re tricky

• Drivers sometimes assume they can go straight across in one move
• Traffic from the ‘second’ junction can be missed
• It’s easy to drift into the wrong lane if you’re not positioned correctly

How to handle them

• Treat each part as its own junction
• Pause in the middle if needed – but only if it’s safe and there’s room
• Watch carefully for traffic approaching from both sides

2. Junctions on bends or hills

Junctions aren’t always placed on nice, flat, straight roads. When visibility is limited by a bend or hill, judging whether it’s safe to pull out becomes much harder.

Why they’re tricky

• Oncoming traffic can appear suddenly
• Cars may be travelling faster than expected
• Other drivers might not see you waiting to emerge

How to handle them

• Edge forward slowly to improve your view
• Don’t rely on sound alone
• Be prepared to wait longer than usual

3. Multi-lane roundabouts

Roundabouts already demand good observation skills. Add multiple lanes, unclear markings or busy traffic, and they can feel overwhelming – even for experienced drivers.

Why they’re tricky

• Lane discipline is easy to get wrong
• Other drivers may change lanes unexpectedly
• It’s not always obvious which lane you should be in

How to handle them

• Read signs early and choose your lane in advance
• Follow road markings rather than copying other drivers
• If you miss your exit, stay calm and go around again

4. Unmarked or ‘informal’ junctions

In residential areas or on rural roads, junctions aren’t always clearly marked. There may be no road markings, no signs, and no obvious priority.

Why they’re tricky

• Priority isn’t always clear
• Other drivers may assume they have right of way
• It can feel awkward deciding who should go first

How to handle them

• Slow right down and be ready to stop
• Make eye contact where possible
• When in doubt, give way

5. Box junctions

Box junctions are simple in theory but surprisingly easy to get wrong – and mistakes here are often punished with fines rather than just embarrassment.

Why they’re tricky

• Traffic ahead can stop suddenly
• Drivers enter without being certain there’s space to exit
• Pressure from traffic behind can lead to rushed decisions

How to handle them

• Only enter if your exit is clear
• Ignore pressure from drivers behind you
• Remember that turning right is often allowed if your exit lane is clear

A quick pause before entering can save you a fine and a lot of frustration.

Final thought

Most junction mistakes don’t happen because drivers don’t know the rules. They happen because junctions are unpredictable, busy, and sometimes poorly laid out.

The best habit to build is simple: slow down, observe early, and don’t rush yourself. Taking an extra few seconds at a tricky junction is always better than taking a chance you’re not sure about.

Confidence at junctions comes with experience – and every careful decision you make is part of building it.

The post 5 Junctions that catch drivers out (and how to handle them) appeared first on Veygo.

Here’s our practical guide to driving in snow and ice.

Before you set off: preparation is key

The safest journey in icy conditions is often the one you don’t make. If your trip isn’t essential, consider delaying it until conditions improve. If you do need to drive, a little preparation can make a big difference.

Start by checking the weather forecast and traffic updates so you know what to expect. Allow extra time for your journey – rushing increases the risk of mistakes.

Make sure your car is winter-ready:

• Clear all snow and ice from windows, mirrors, lights and the roof before driving off.
• Check your tyre tread depth (the legal minimum is 1.6mm, but more grip is better in winter).
• Ensure your windscreen washer fluid contains antifreeze and is topped up.
• Keep essentials in the car, such as warm clothing, a phone charger, a torch, and de-icer.

Good visibility and grip are vital when roads are icy.

Moving off and controlling your speed

When driving on snow or ice, smoothness is everything. Sudden movements can cause you to lose control.

Move off gently, using low revs. If your car allows it, starting in second gear can reduce wheel spin. Once moving, keep your speed low and consistent. Even if the road looks clear, patches of ice can be hard to spot – especially in shaded areas, on bridges, and early in the morning or late at night.

Remember that stopping distances increase dramatically in icy conditions. Leave a much larger gap than usual between you and the vehicle ahead – up to ten times the normal distance if the road is very slippery.

Steering, braking and gears

Steering should be smooth and gradual. Avoid sharp turns, as these can cause the tyres to lose grip. If the car starts to slide, gently ease off the pedals and steer smoothly in the direction you want the front of the car to go.

When braking:

• Brake early and gently.
• If your car has ABS, apply steady pressure to the brake pedal and let the system work.
• If it doesn’t, use gentle cadence braking to avoid locking the wheels.

Use higher gears where possible to help reduce wheel spin, and avoid unnecessary gear changes on slippery roads.

Hills, junctions and rural roads

Hills can be particularly challenging in snow and ice. Try to maintain a steady speed when going uphill and avoid stopping if possible. When going downhill, slow down well before the slope and use engine braking by selecting a lower gear.

Approach junctions with extra caution. Brake earlier than usual and be prepared for other drivers to struggle with stopping or pulling away.

Rural roads can be especially hazardous in winter. They’re often untreated and may look clear while hiding ice underneath. Drive defensively and be ready to react.

What to do if you skid

Skids are scary, especially for new drivers, but staying calm is crucial.

If your car skids:

• Do not slam on the brakes.
• Ease off the pedals.
• Steer smoothly into the skid (towards where the front of the car needs to go).

Modern cars are designed to help regain control, but your inputs still matter.

Know when to stop

If conditions become too dangerous – heavy snowfall, freezing rain, or very poor visibility – the safest option may be to pull over somewhere safe and wait. No journey is worth risking your safety.

Final thoughts

Winter driving in the UK can be unpredictable, but good preparation, patience and smooth driving techniques go a long way. For learner drivers and those new to the road, it’s completely normal to feel nervous – take your time, build confidence gradually, and don’t be afraid to postpone a journey if conditions feel unsafe.

Staying informed and driving cautiously helps keep you – and everyone else on the road – safer this winter.

The post Driving in snow and ice: A practical guide appeared first on Veygo.

But knowing how (and when) to use your lights properly isn’t just about avoiding fines – it’s about being safe, seen and confident behind the wheel. Here’s a simple breakdown of what the UK law says about car lights, plus a few practical tips from the Veygo team.

1. Lights aren’t just for night-time

If you’ve just passed your test, it’s easy to think headlights are only for when it’s dark. In reality, you’ll need them more often than you’d expect.

Rain, fog, spray from the car ahead – anything that cuts your visibility means it’s time to light up. If you can’t clearly see the car in front (or they might struggle to see you), switch on your dipped headlights. It’s safer and it keeps you within the law.

Modern cars with daytime running lights (DRLs) help, but they don’t always illuminate the rear of your car – so check that your tail lights are actually on when conditions get murky.

Veygo tip: When in doubt, lights on. Nobody ever failed a journey for being too visible.

2. Night driving 101

As soon as the sun sets, your lights become your voice on the road – they show others where you are, where you’re going, and how fast.

Use dipped headlights whenever street lighting isn’t enough. Full beam is brilliant on unlit roads, but remember to dip them again if someone’s coming towards you, or you’re following another car. It’s just good manners (and keeps everyone’s eyesight intact).

You technically can drive on sidelights alone in well-lit areas, but it’s not worth the risk – most drivers just keep their dipped beams on for better visibility.

And if you’re heading out late, give your lights a quick once-over before you set off. It’s an easy way to spot a dead bulb before someone else does.

3. Brake lights and signals

Brake lights and indicators might seem boring, but they’re the reason traffic doesn’t collapse into chaos.

If a brake bulb goes, other drivers have no warning you’re slowing down. That can end badly – or at least earn you a stop from the police. Check them regularly (a quick reverse up to a window or garage door shows if both sides light up).

Indicators, meanwhile, are your way of telling everyone what’s next. Use them early, clearly, and always cancel after the turn. As for hazard lights, save them for when you’ve had to stop somewhere unusual or need to warn people of danger ahead – not for thanking someone or pulling up briefly.

Veygo tip: get in the habit of doing a ‘light walkaround’ whenever you refuel. It takes 20 seconds and saves you a fine.

4. Fog lights

Fog lights are like espresso shots: great in moderation, a bit much otherwise.

They’re designed for serious visibility drops – think thick fog, snow, or spray where you can barely see 100 metres ahead. If the fog clears, turn them off. They’re brighter than your regular lights and can dazzle drivers behind you. Using them in normal conditions might even earn you a fixed-penalty fine.

So: if you can see the car in front, you probably don’t need your fogs. Simple.

Quick recap

• Bad weather: Dipped headlights.
• Dark or poorly lit road: Dipped or main beam (but don’t dazzle).
• Fog or heavy snow: Fog lights on – and off again when clear.
• Every drive: Make sure your brake and indicator lights all work.

5. Keep your lights legal and working

Beyond knowing when to use them, it’s also about keeping them in good shape.

• Clean them regularly – dirt can cut their brightness by half.
• Check for cracks, condensation or loose fittings.
• Replace blown bulbs straight away (many garages will do this on the spot).
• Avoid coloured or tinted lights that could confuse other drivers – they’re illegal and could invalidate your insurance.

Veygo tip: Keep a spare bulb kit in your glovebox. They’re cheap, small, and can save your night drive.

6. How this fits with Veygo and you

At Veygo, we get it – young drivers juggle a lot. Maybe you’re driving home from a night shift, heading to a uni lecture in the rain, or borrowing a friend’s car for the weekend. Whatever the journey, visibility matters.

Good lighting habits keep you safe, lower your risk of accidents, and show you’re a responsible driver – which is exactly the kind of behaviour insurers like to see.

In short: your lights protect more than your car. They protect your confidence on the road.

Final checklist for younger drivers

Before your next drive, run through this quick list:

• Are all your exterior lights working (headlights, brake lights, indicators)?
• Are your headlights on when visibility is low, or when it’s night?
• Are your fog lights off unless visibility is really poor (under 100 metres)?
• Are your lights clean and aligned properly?
• Got spare bulbs handy?

Stay visible. Stay safe. And drive smart.

The post What are the rules for car lights in the UK? appeared first on Veygo.

• Cat N – Non Structural
  Your car costs more to fix than it’s worth, but the main structure (the frame) isn’t damaged.
• Cat S – Structural
  Your car costs more to fix than it’s worth, and the main structure (the frame) is damaged.
• Cat B
  Your car is too badly damaged to ever go back on the road. Some parts may be recycled or reused, but the car itself can’t be kept on the road.
• Cat A
  The car can’t be repaired or recycled. It has to be completely destroyed.

Can I keep my car?

• Keeping your car
  If it’s a Cat N or Cat S, you can choose to keep the car. You’d be responsible for arranging repairs, selling it, or breaking it down for parts.

  Just keep in mind:

  • It will always carry a “Total Loss Marker” (e.g. Cat N or Cat S) that must be declared if you sell it,
  • You’ll likely need a new MOT to prove it’s roadworthy before reinsuring.
  • If you’re driving someone else’s car, the main insurer on that car needs to confirm it’s covered.
     
• Disposing of your car
  If it’s a Cat A or Cat B, you won’t be able to keep it. We’ll arrange for a salvage company to collect it and make sure it’s safely taken off the road.

  If you want to keep your private number plate, no problem — you just need to let the DVLA know. Here’s how.

  If you do choose to keep your car (Cat N or Cat S), we’ll deduct the salvage value. Your file handler will explain exactly what this means and how much it is, as it varies depending on the car.

How do we value your car?

If your car is written off, we’ll pay you its market value at the time of the accident. We use trusted industry guides which uses data from both retailers and trade to make sure the price is fair.

We look at:

• Auto Trader
• Glass’s Guide
• CAPs data

Sometimes, we may send an assessor to value the car in person or a digital assessment through photos.

What if my car is on finance?

If your car is on finance, we’ll pay the outstanding balance up to the market value of your car. Your file handler will guide you through this.

If the finance is more than your car is worth, you may have a shortfall. If you’ve got GAP Insurance, contact your GAP provider — this covers the difference between what you paid for your car originally and its current market value.

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